Blown-in insulation is the most efficient way to add R-value to an existing attic. Loose-fill fiberglass or cellulose is blown into the attic floor to the correct depth, covering the joists and any existing insulation evenly. It's faster than batt installation, performs well in Angelina County's climate, and is typically the right choice for attic upgrades in existing homes.

Lufkin is the seat of Angelina County and grew up as a timber and sawmill town, with the Angelina National Forest and Sam Rayburn Reservoir framing the city on its eastern and southern edges. That timber-industry heritage still shapes the local economy through companies like Lufkin Industries, and the housing stock includes a meaningful share of older wood-frame homes where original insulation, if present at all, is often a thin, settled layer of loose-fill material that has compacted well below its rated R-value over decades. Deep East Texas humidity sits heavier in Lufkin than in the drier western parts of the state, trapped by dense pine forest on nearly every approach into town, and that persistent moisture combined with underinsulated, poorly ventilated attics is a common driver of both high energy bills and attic moisture problems in the city's older homes. Residential growth has been modest and concentrated along Highway 59 and Highway 103, with newer construction using insulation levels well ahead of what the older in-town housing stock carries.

Fiberglass vs. Cellulose Blown-In

Blown-in fiberglass is white, light, and maintains its R-value even when it gets slightly damp. Blown-in cellulose (made from recycled paper) is denser, settles more over time, and has slightly better resistance to air movement through the insulation layer. Both are good options — we can advise on the better choice for your specific attic conditions and R-value goals. Neither material is universally the better choice — the right pick usually comes down to a handful of practical factors specific to your attic rather than a general rule.

  • Existing insulation type — blowing cellulose on top of old fiberglass (or the reverse) is generally fine, but a contractor will check compatibility and settling behavior before recommending a mix.
  • Fire and pest resistance — cellulose is treated with borate for fire and pest resistance as part of manufacturing; fiberglass is naturally non-combustible without needing chemical treatment.
  • Attic ventilation — in a well-ventilated attic, both materials perform close to their rated values. In a marginally ventilated attic, fiberglass's better tolerance of incidental moisture can be an advantage.
  • Density and coverage — cellulose's higher density means it can be slightly more resistant to wind-washing near soffit vents, a detail that matters more in attics with significant airflow near the eaves.

How Much to Add and Where

Your contractor measures your existing insulation depth and calculates your current R-value, then tells you exactly how much additional insulation is needed to reach the recommended level for Angelina County. Depth markers are installed in the attic so you (or a future inspector) can verify the installed depth. The job is clean and typically completed in a few hours for a standard attic. Even coverage matters as much as total depth — a blower hose passed too quickly over an area leaves it thinner than the rest of the attic, which is why depth-marker verification at multiple points, not just near the hatch, is part of a proper job rather than an optional extra.

  • Pre-installation prep — air sealing bypasses and installing baffles at soffit vents (to keep insulation from blocking attic airflow) happens before material goes in.
  • Even distribution — the installer works the attic systematically rather than just filling from one access point outward, which is where uneven coverage most often comes from.
  • Settling allowance — cellulose in particular is blown to a slightly greater initial depth than the target R-value requires, accounting for expected settling over the following months.
  • Depth verification — markers placed at multiple points let you (or a future home inspector) confirm the installed depth without needing to measure by hand.

Have Questions?

We're happy to walk through your situation before you commit. Call us and we'll tell you honestly whether an upgrade makes financial sense for your home.

Call (469) 210-0277

This content is reviewed by the Texas Insulation Pros editorial team and informed by licensed-contractor sourcing, manufacturer documentation, and established industry standards for Insulation. Read our editorial standards.